BKK

Taken at the abandoned Thai Royal Navy Police headquarters on the Chao Phaya River near Saphan Taksin, Bangkok.  As housing costs skyrocket in Bangkok more and more people are "squatting" in abandoned buildings such as these. 

UXO and The People's Democratic Republic of Laos

The United States of America dropped more ordinance on Laos during the "Vietnam" war than they dropped during the entire second World War.  Think about this for a moment.  Laos, a country about the size of Utah or Great Britain, received 9 years of continuous bombing totaling more than 2 million tons of ordinance received, or about 10 tons of bombs per square kilometer. This means Laos remains, per capita, the most heavily bombed country in the history of mankind. All of this was in done in secret as America was not officially at war with Laos.  It was an effort to block the Ho Chi Minh trail of course, at the time the most expensive military venture in American history and an epic failure.

The above picture is one of many you can view with a simple Google search.  Those "ponds" are of course bomb craters dotting the Laoation landscape.  Many Lao people now use these craters as reservoirs for crops or fish farms. When I visited this country for the first time in 2009 I was lucky enough to be invited to a fish feast at the home of my then-boyfriend's family. I didn't realize that the beautiful lakes we were picnicking next to were actually craters left behind from nearly a decade of hell fire my country rained down upon this, their family's home, a few decades ago.

Note the "pond" in the background to the left.

I am writing about this today for a couple of reasons.  The first is I think far too many Americans don't really know the history of the Secret War in Laos, and even more who visit this country know even less.  I certainly knew nothing of the Secret War before taking a few classes in graduate school.  Even the first time I visited the country I was aware of the conflict that had taken place but I had no idea the scale of it.  I think in some coming posts I will go more in to the history of the Secret War because I have been lucky enough to come across people who have wiped away at least some of my ignorance.  But in the meantime if you have more questions about this history or context here please leave them below and I will be happy to respond.

The second reason I am writing this today is because I believe my country needs to be reminded that this conflict is not over for the people of Laos.  Estimates very, but most reports state that 30% of the cluster bombs dropped over Laos by American forces failed to detonate.  This means by the end of 1979 more than 80 million ready-to-kill cluster bombs remained in people's villages, on their land, around their roadways, and throughout the Lao jungle. The UN estimates that since the end of the Secret War 22,000 people have been killed by this unexploded ordinance (UXO).

I visited Vientiane, the government's seat of the People's Democratic Republic of Laos, just last week on a visa run.  While there I came across an article in one of the English newspapers reporting on the government's efforts to clear this UXO.  It reports that in 2010 the removal of UXO by Laos' UXO National Regulatory Authority (think about actually having a governmental department in your country whose sole duty is to remove bombs lying around your town) was slowed due to a budget shortfall of approximately 1 million USD.  It doesn't take an expert to understand that without the removal of this UXO Laos will continue to remain one of the least developed countries in the world.

After I came across this article I did an admittedly small amount of research on the funding of UXO removal in Laos. I found that countries like Great Britain gave 3.5 million USD in 2010 and 2011 to support UXO removal, and others like Japan and Norway (of all places) joined the fight with equipment, manpower, and some financial support.  So where does America come in?  The United State's congress allocates funds each year to the State Department's Office of Weapons Removal and Abatement Program (WRA). In fiscal year 2010, the same year there was a 1 million USD shortfall for Laos' UXO National Regulatory Authority, congress allocated an additional 100,000 USD to the WRA's work in Laos.

This number should indeed be put in to context.  Adding 100,000 USD to the WRA's program in Laos brought the total funding to a record 5.1 million USD.  It is the most funding congress has ever allocated for the removal of UXO since the Secret War was first famously exposed by Senator Edward Kennedy on the house floor in 1971.

But it is not enough.  Over the past four decades less than 1% of the UXO remaining in Laos has yet to be cleared.  Again, since the war has ended over 20,000 civilian deaths have occurred due to UXO in Laos, and still today approximately 100 accidents occur each year with these bomblets.  40% percent of these accidents are actually children usually playing in their own villages or along the country roadsides.

I will note here there is a serious and obviousl problem with money laundering, fraud, and corruption within the Lao government.  This is a subject that of course plays a part here and one which I will explore in future posts.  Yet regardless, 100,000 USD in increased funding to remove the killing machines we left behind in our illegal war on Laos is shameful.  I thought about this as I sat next to the Mekong river in Vientiane last week enjoying a lemongrass soup.  I felt embarrassed.  And I felt angry.  And I believe all of us Americans, whether or not we visit this beautiful land, should be feeling the same.

I want you and I want everyone you know to learn more about this.  I want us to understand the legacy of America in this part of the world. I want us to proudly take on the responsibility of cleaning up the mess that our fellow Americans who came before us left behind.  And I especially want you fellow travelers who are visiting this beautiful country to not just take memories away, but leave something genuine behind.

There are a lot of websites and NGO's out there doing good work around this issue, but I have found www.legaciesofwar.org to be the most informative and useful.  This website can answer nearly any question you may have about the legacy of the Secret War and America's trail of UXO.  And more importantly, it offers multiple ways of getting involved.  You can be as lazy as you want and still make a difference by sticking your name on a petition, you can contribute financially if you feel so inclined after reading their FAQ pages, or you can even volunteer in-country and gain a once in a lifetime experience during your travels here in Southeast Asia.  It's up to you, but please help put my mind to rest and at least visit their page.

This post was a bit dark I know.  But the legacies of war are never pretty, and it's a subject matter none of us enjoy thinking about.  I do hope however that there was something in this post, maybe a statistic, that moves you to act.  And I promise in my next post to have lots of pretty pictures from my last visit to Laos to make you smile.

Thanks for reading, and please share this on Facebook if you feel it worthy.

Now on to Today's Travel Tips:
- Crossing the boarder at Nongkai in to Laos is a tedious, boring, and hot process.  But be polite and be respectful.  No, you are not being 'ripped off' and no the border fees you are paying are not a 'scam.'  Everyone pays the same for a visa from their respective nationality.  You are a guest in this country, look at the picture above and be thankful you are being welcomed with open arms
- After crossing the border at the bridge, be patient.  Eventually you will see a local van that takes people in to Vientiane for 6,000 kip (less than 25 baht).  You do NOT need to pay 30 or 100 or even 300 baht for a taxi that is going to the same place.
- Smile a lot.  I mean A LOT.
- And finally, when arriving at the Vientiane bus station do NOT eat the Vietnamese sandwiches from all those shops you will see.  Just trust me on this one, food poisoning sucks and I am by far not the only one who has had this experience here.  Wait until you get in to town, set your bags down, and get yourself a freshly cooked meal.  Then smile some more.

Baan Tha Thon, Thailand 2011

4 hours North of Mueang Chiang Mai on the Burmese border lies the sleepy village of Tha Thon, Mae Ai district.  Founded on the Kok River between 3 mountain ranges and surrounded by endless waterfalls, Baan Tha Thon provides some of the best scenery and natural wonders that can be found anywhere in Thailand.  This area has changed hands between Burma and Thailand multiple times in the past and it has a long history of drug smuggling and violence.  Because of this Tha Ton was long closed off to tourists.  More recently however, with Tha Thon now firmly under Thailand's domain, the international drug trade here has all but dissapeared (primarily due to the questionable tactics of Prime Minister Thaskin to erradicate drug activity throughout the country...I'll save that for another blog post).  At any rate, the village is now open again to travellers like myself yet Tha Ton largely remains untouched by tourism.  I'm sure in the coming years as more foreigners discover what the Thai people have long been enjoying here, that will change.

Baan Tha Thon is home to an eclectic mix of people.  As recently as the early 20th century this village was still part of Burma until the border was moved further up the Kok river.  The village is primarily inhabited by the Shan people from Shan State in Burma.  Surrounding the village are dozens of smaller villages where various hill tribes can be found.  The Lisu, Yao, Karen, Akkha, and Lahu people live here as well as Chinese decendants who fled Burma after the latest coup.  As such the food, temples, and local dialects of the area display influence from numerous ethnic groups.

Wat Tha Thon is a massive temple complex covering an entire mountain overlooking the village, topped off with a beautiful multi-story central temple at the very top.  The complex consists of Buddhist statues and monuments, some topping 40 feet tall, placed on various levels of the mountain starting at the base all the way to the peak.  Each level can be visited by following the steep road that winds it's way up, so long as your motorcycle is strong enough to climb the grade (125 cc is sufficient, 100 is not...I found that out the hard way).

I have lots and lots to say about this entire area but I will save some of it for future blogs.  For now I will some it up like this:  The people of Tha Ton are beautiful, generous, and warm, the food is spectacular, and the views and scenery are just absolutely to die for.  If you can make it, RUN.

Wat Lokmolee, Lanna Style - Chiang Mai 2011

The blending of Hinduism, Buddhism, Animism, and Chinese Influence

As you can see from my earlier posts the province I live in (along with about 30 other provinces throughout Thailand) has been ravaged by the worst flooding in decades.  My school being closed, and the water inching ever higher towards my home, I decided to come to Chiang Mai for a little holiday.

I came across this Lanna Style temple in the Old City area of Chiang Mai for the first time the other day.  I was fascinated by the blending of so many religions in one place, and the architecture here is just beautiful.  Here are some of the photos I caught.


This is a very brief description of the temple and grounds posted for the English speaking visitor.  I never trust these too much as I sometimes think they aren't all that accurate and are just placed there to give the falang something to read. Still, here is an introduction.



The main temple entrance, clearly Lanna.  I found the nagas at the entrance particularly beautiful, and the work over the arch very intricate.



Entering the main temple. The main Buddha image in the background was quite beautiful, but the work on the ceiling and walls was breathtaking.



Buddha Santi Jira Boromloganart image close-up



Ceiling of the temple, my little camera could not even begin to capture the full length.



As in most Buddhist temples the walls here depict images telling the stories of the Great Teacher's life.  The images in this temple were amazing, but while I was there a number of people were meditating and I felt very uncomfortable wandering around taking too many pictures.  I only grabbed these two in passing so I apologize for the quality.
  


Side view of the main image. I REALLY want to know what these items are in the foreground....I am assuming they are used in various ceremonies.



View of the temple on the right, main stupa in the background.



Close-up of the stupa and Buddha image.  I did not want to get to close as a funeral was taking place around the base of the stupa.




Found on the temple grounds.  Image of princes Jiraprapa.  I believe the wife of King Burengnong in the 1500's.  Anyone with info? Sak paying respect in the foreground.





I really like this photo.  Monument to the Lanna princess in the background to the left, a beautiful image of Brahma (I hope I am remembering this correctly from school) in the center, and the Animist practice of honoring an old tree to the right.  Tying these ribbons or silk around this tree bring the practitioner "power," as told to me by the monk I spoke with here.



Rear view of the tree.



The monk was calling this building an "abode." I couldn't exactly figure out the purpose of the building but inside were images of the many abbots who resided at Lokmolee over the years along with elephant tusks and golden boxes.  I was a bit confused, he wasn't able to answer my questions, and I was asked to not take pictures inside.  Above the entrance are beautiful images, the center of which is a Lanna King (Burengnong? Husband of Princess Jiraprapa? not sure...)




This area on the temple grounds was really interesting to me.  The only information I got was that this is the "respected lady."  The architecture on the housing itself is clearly Chinese, but the image of the "respected lady" looks Hindu to me.  I loved it, and I really want to learn more about this piece.





And now of course we have Ganesh...there were dozens of these all over the grounds. It's always so interesting to see the mishmash of Hinduism/Buddhism (and yet many people here tend to see this as strictly Thai Buddhism).



This is the one image I got no information on, but I thought it was beautiful.  I will try to find more on it later.



The images of the animals representing a Thai person's birthday seem to line the outside of a lot of temples around here.  Here Sak has found his animal (the pig) and is pausing for a moment.  I think I will contact Ajan Fon and ask her about this.  I'm not sure if this is just a Thai thing, if it is related to Buddhism or Hinduism or Animism or what...and of course the answer to these sorts of questions tend to depend on who you are asking.



And finally my friend Sak standing in front of one of the white elephants near the entrance to the temple.  We had a great time, and he found my questions to him and the monks rather amusing.

A day in the Singburi Market, Thailand 2011

This post really is pretty much for Courtney.  He always seems obsessed with pictures of foodstuffs....so here you go buddy.  These are just a few snaps I got walking through the market in town here...Sak was making green curry for me that night so together we went down and bought all the ingredients. Yum! Some of them are a bit blurry as I was trying to take them inconspicuously as I was walking. Pig's head soup anyone?

Chao Phraya, Singburi Thailand - Flood 2011

Singburi lies along the Chao Phraya river, one of the largest in Thailand. Tributaries from all over the north converge into the Chao near Singburi.  The river continues south through Bangkok and empties out in to the gulf.  But, Bangkok is well protected from flooding because massive damns have been built up north (around where I live).  The result is every year during the rainy season the Chao Phraya overflows its banks in to towns like Singburi (and many others around here) causing a lot of destruction in order to save Bangkok.  Here are just a few (poor) pictures I caught of the begining of the flooding, and some of the preparation the community is putting in to action (with no governmental support) to try to save their homes.  Things are about to get much worse as the river is now rapidly rising, and I will post some more here as they come in.

This is the entrance to the temple near where I live.  You can see a monk there on the right getting in to a little boat to try to make it back to his home (hopefully it isn't totally underwater).  


This used to be a street between the river and the temple.  Now it's just part of the river.  Cars and motos have been replaced by small boats to get around.



Here is a photo not far from the river. You can see the house in the background must be totally destroyed.  The house on the left might be luckier as they have a couple of stories to move their valuables upstairs.  Notice in the bottom right they had placed sand bags to protect there home, which now have totally overflowed.



These homes are riverfront.  They used to have long stairs leading down to the river to go fishing.  Now the river has surpassed those stairs and entered there homes, and I'm pretty sure these people are now living in the tent villages set up in higher ground.



This is a street in front of the temple where boat is now necessary to travel.  You can see the temple in the background, now also underwater.



This is inside the temple, now abandoned.



Here I am giving my students and their family a hand trying to sandbag so they may be able to save their homes.  Looking at the pictures above, I hate to think how futile it may have been.





Though far luckier than those living closer to the river, my house did get a little damaged.

This a view outside my living room at what used to be my yard.



This is a picture a snapped just before the water came through this door in to my house.  Underneath that water was a patio where I used to cook and clean dishes (outdoor kitchens are pretty common here).



Water several feet deep here next to my house.  I'm hoping these banana trees are not lost.



Another picture of the no-more outdoor kitchen.



This is a picture of the school ground where I work.  The water was remarkably deep. School is now closed for a week.



Things have calmed down now (for me). The water has receded from my home.  But the worse seems yet to come for those living closer to the river.  If that's the case, and people end up living in these tents who had to evacuate their homes, for longer than expected, I may begin to take up a collection to bring those 'tent cities' some basic necessities.  I need first to look in to what the immediate needs are, without being an asshole American trying to 'save these poor people".  But, I have lots of friends in America...and the dollar goes incredibly far here.  A small donation from you can go a long way in Singburi, and other towns even worse off than there.  If you have the means at the moment and are interested, let me know.