4 hours North of Mueang Chiang Mai on the Burmese border lies the sleepy village of Tha Thon, Mae Ai district. Founded on the Kok River between 3 mountain ranges and surrounded by endless waterfalls, Baan Tha Thon provides some of the best scenery and natural wonders that can be found anywhere in Thailand. This area has changed hands between Burma and Thailand multiple times in the past and it has a long history of drug smuggling and violence. Because of this Tha Ton was long closed off to tourists. More recently however, with Tha Thon now firmly under Thailand's domain, the international drug trade here has all but dissapeared (primarily due to the questionable tactics of Prime Minister Thaskin to erradicate drug activity throughout the country...I'll save that for another blog post). At any rate, the village is now open again to travellers like myself yet Tha Ton largely remains untouched by tourism. I'm sure in the coming years as more foreigners discover what the Thai people have long been enjoying here, that will change.
Baan Tha Thon is home to an eclectic mix of people. As recently as the early 20th century this village was still part of Burma until the border was moved further up the Kok river. The village is primarily inhabited by the Shan people from Shan State in Burma. Surrounding the village are dozens of smaller villages where various hill tribes can be found. The Lisu, Yao, Karen, Akkha, and Lahu people live here as well as Chinese decendants who fled Burma after the latest coup. As such the food, temples, and local dialects of the area display influence from numerous ethnic groups.
Wat Tha Thon is a massive temple complex covering an entire mountain overlooking the village, topped off with a beautiful multi-story central temple at the very top. The complex consists of Buddhist statues and monuments, some topping 40 feet tall, placed on various levels of the mountain starting at the base all the way to the peak. Each level can be visited by following the steep road that winds it's way up, so long as your motorcycle is strong enough to climb the grade (125 cc is sufficient, 100 is not...I found that out the hard way).
I have lots and lots to say about this entire area but I will save some of it for future blogs. For now I will some it up like this: The people of Tha Ton are beautiful, generous, and warm, the food is spectacular, and the views and scenery are just absolutely to die for. If you can make it, RUN.
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Saturday, October 8, 2011
Wat Lokmolee, Lanna Style - Chiang Mai 2011
The blending of Hinduism, Buddhism, Animism, and Chinese Influence
As you can see from my earlier posts the province I live in (along with about 30 other provinces throughout Thailand) has been ravaged by the worst flooding in decades. My school being closed, and the water inching ever higher towards my home, I decided to come to Chiang Mai for a little holiday.
I came across this Lanna Style temple in the Old City area of Chiang Mai for the first time the other day. I was fascinated by the blending of so many religions in one place, and the architecture here is just beautiful. Here are some of the photos I caught.
This is a very brief description of the temple and grounds posted for the English speaking visitor. I never trust these too much as I sometimes think they aren't all that accurate and are just placed there to give the falang something to read. Still, here is an introduction.
The main temple entrance, clearly Lanna. I found the nagas at the entrance particularly beautiful, and the work over the arch very intricate.
Entering the main temple. The main Buddha image in the background was quite beautiful, but the work on the ceiling and walls was breathtaking.
Buddha Santi Jira Boromloganart image close-up
Ceiling of the temple, my little camera could not even begin to capture the full length.
As in most Buddhist temples the walls here depict images telling the stories of the Great Teacher's life. The images in this temple were amazing, but while I was there a number of people were meditating and I felt very uncomfortable wandering around taking too many pictures. I only grabbed these two in passing so I apologize for the quality.
Side view of the main image. I REALLY want to know what these items are in the foreground....I am assuming they are used in various ceremonies.
View of the temple on the right, main stupa in the background.
Close-up of the stupa and Buddha image. I did not want to get to close as a funeral was taking place around the base of the stupa.
Found on the temple grounds. Image of princes Jiraprapa. I believe the wife of King Burengnong in the 1500's. Anyone with info? Sak paying respect in the foreground.
I really like this photo. Monument to the Lanna princess in the background to the left, a beautiful image of Brahma (I hope I am remembering this correctly from school) in the center, and the Animist practice of honoring an old tree to the right. Tying these ribbons or silk around this tree bring the practitioner "power," as told to me by the monk I spoke with here.
Rear view of the tree.
The monk was calling this building an "abode." I couldn't exactly figure out the purpose of the building but inside were images of the many abbots who resided at Lokmolee over the years along with elephant tusks and golden boxes. I was a bit confused, he wasn't able to answer my questions, and I was asked to not take pictures inside. Above the entrance are beautiful images, the center of which is a Lanna King (Burengnong? Husband of Princess Jiraprapa? not sure...)
This area on the temple grounds was really interesting to me. The only information I got was that this is the "respected lady." The architecture on the housing itself is clearly Chinese, but the image of the "respected lady" looks Hindu to me. I loved it, and I really want to learn more about this piece.
And now of course we have Ganesh...there were dozens of these all over the grounds. It's always so interesting to see the mishmash of Hinduism/Buddhism (and yet many people here tend to see this as strictly Thai Buddhism).
This is the one image I got no information on, but I thought it was beautiful. I will try to find more on it later.
The images of the animals representing a Thai person's birthday seem to line the outside of a lot of temples around here. Here Sak has found his animal (the pig) and is pausing for a moment. I think I will contact Ajan Fon and ask her about this. I'm not sure if this is just a Thai thing, if it is related to Buddhism or Hinduism or Animism or what...and of course the answer to these sorts of questions tend to depend on who you are asking.
And finally my friend Sak standing in front of one of the white elephants near the entrance to the temple. We had a great time, and he found my questions to him and the monks rather amusing.
As you can see from my earlier posts the province I live in (along with about 30 other provinces throughout Thailand) has been ravaged by the worst flooding in decades. My school being closed, and the water inching ever higher towards my home, I decided to come to Chiang Mai for a little holiday.
I came across this Lanna Style temple in the Old City area of Chiang Mai for the first time the other day. I was fascinated by the blending of so many religions in one place, and the architecture here is just beautiful. Here are some of the photos I caught.
This is a very brief description of the temple and grounds posted for the English speaking visitor. I never trust these too much as I sometimes think they aren't all that accurate and are just placed there to give the falang something to read. Still, here is an introduction.
The main temple entrance, clearly Lanna. I found the nagas at the entrance particularly beautiful, and the work over the arch very intricate.
Entering the main temple. The main Buddha image in the background was quite beautiful, but the work on the ceiling and walls was breathtaking.
Buddha Santi Jira Boromloganart image close-up
Ceiling of the temple, my little camera could not even begin to capture the full length.
As in most Buddhist temples the walls here depict images telling the stories of the Great Teacher's life. The images in this temple were amazing, but while I was there a number of people were meditating and I felt very uncomfortable wandering around taking too many pictures. I only grabbed these two in passing so I apologize for the quality.
Side view of the main image. I REALLY want to know what these items are in the foreground....I am assuming they are used in various ceremonies.
View of the temple on the right, main stupa in the background.
Close-up of the stupa and Buddha image. I did not want to get to close as a funeral was taking place around the base of the stupa.
Found on the temple grounds. Image of princes Jiraprapa. I believe the wife of King Burengnong in the 1500's. Anyone with info? Sak paying respect in the foreground.
I really like this photo. Monument to the Lanna princess in the background to the left, a beautiful image of Brahma (I hope I am remembering this correctly from school) in the center, and the Animist practice of honoring an old tree to the right. Tying these ribbons or silk around this tree bring the practitioner "power," as told to me by the monk I spoke with here.
Rear view of the tree.
The monk was calling this building an "abode." I couldn't exactly figure out the purpose of the building but inside were images of the many abbots who resided at Lokmolee over the years along with elephant tusks and golden boxes. I was a bit confused, he wasn't able to answer my questions, and I was asked to not take pictures inside. Above the entrance are beautiful images, the center of which is a Lanna King (Burengnong? Husband of Princess Jiraprapa? not sure...)
This area on the temple grounds was really interesting to me. The only information I got was that this is the "respected lady." The architecture on the housing itself is clearly Chinese, but the image of the "respected lady" looks Hindu to me. I loved it, and I really want to learn more about this piece.
And now of course we have Ganesh...there were dozens of these all over the grounds. It's always so interesting to see the mishmash of Hinduism/Buddhism (and yet many people here tend to see this as strictly Thai Buddhism).
This is the one image I got no information on, but I thought it was beautiful. I will try to find more on it later.
The images of the animals representing a Thai person's birthday seem to line the outside of a lot of temples around here. Here Sak has found his animal (the pig) and is pausing for a moment. I think I will contact Ajan Fon and ask her about this. I'm not sure if this is just a Thai thing, if it is related to Buddhism or Hinduism or Animism or what...and of course the answer to these sorts of questions tend to depend on who you are asking.
And finally my friend Sak standing in front of one of the white elephants near the entrance to the temple. We had a great time, and he found my questions to him and the monks rather amusing.
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